A frontier stronghold in West Texas

by Jim Fish

Nestled along the historic U.S. Highway 290, the weathered ruins of Fort Lancaster and Battlefield stand as a silent monument to the volatile frontier era of West Texas. Located in Crockett County, about eight miles east of Sheffield, the fort’s crumbling chimneys rise just south of the highway, near the confluence of Live Oak Creek and the Pecos River.

Established as Camp Lancaster on August 20, 1855, and renamed Fort Lancaster the following day, the site became a critical military outpost in a region plagued by conflict between settlers and Native American tribes during the decade preceding the Civil War. This article, the first in a two-part series, examines the fort’s founding, strategic role, and formative years.

Securing the Western Trail

The creation of Fort Lancaster was a direct response to increasing vulnerability along the westward trail to the Pacific. By 1855, Fort Terrett, located 22 miles west of Junction on the North Fork of the Llano River, had been decommissioned after only two years in operation. Its closure left a dangerous gap in the frontier defense network between Fort McKavett to the east and Fort Stockton to the west. The vital Pecos River crossing, a key point along the emigrant trail, was left exposed to frequent raids, particularly by the Mescalero Apache. Fort Lancaster’s founding was seen as essential to safeguard this stretch of the route.

The fort’s site was strategically chosen: a gentle rise about 25 feet above the Pecos River, with high ridges to the south and east, and Live Oak Creek to the north. The surrounding terrain not only offered tactical advantages but also practical resources. The maguey plant also known as agave, was fermented into pulque, a daily dose of which helped prevent scurvy among soldiers in an era when fresh produce was scarce.

Building a Garrison

Fort Lancaster was initially manned by Companies H and K of the First U.S. Infantry under the command of Captain Stephen D. Carpenter, who led the post from its inception until February 1856, and again from March 1858 to January 1859. Between those periods, Captain Robert S. Granger served as commander. Granger resumed leadership in 1859 until the fort’s abandonment on March 19, 1861.

The troops spent much of their time drilling, training for field service, and constructing more permanent facilities. At first, they lived in portable Turley barracks, practical but vulnerable to West Texas winds. Over time, stone structures were erected, including officers’ quarters and a stone corral, built to endure the region’s harsh conditions.

Life on the frontier was grueling. Lydia Spencer Lane, traveling through the post on Aug. 2, 1856, on her way from Fort Clark to Fort Bliss, described it as “the worst station I have seen in Texas,” though she noted the camaraderie of the officers’ wives, including Mrs. R.S. Granger, with whom she shared a meal. 

Conversely, May Humphrey Stacey, who passed through in 1858 with Lieutenant Edward Beale’s camel caravan, found the station more appealing. 

The journey was not without tragedy, Captain A.B. Lee of the Eighth U.S. Infantry buried his infant child at the post, a sobering reminder of the human cost of military life in the West.

Confronting the Frontier Threat

Fort Lancaster’s mission was to protect travelers and military supply lines from hostile encounters. That mission was quickly put to the test. On Oct. 11, 1854, prior to the fort’s establishment, a detachment from Company F, First Infantry, repelled an attack along Live Oak Creek. Another notable engagement occurred on January 31, 1857, at Howard Springs, 15 miles south of the post, involving soldiers from the First and Eighth Infantry.

One of the most significant clashes came on July 24, 1857, at a site known as “the Ripples.” A group of approximately 100 Mescalero Apache warriors ambushed a mail escort and a wood-cutting detail. 

Lieutenants Alexander M. Haskell and John P. Sherburne, commanding a 40-man force from Fort Lancaster and Fort Davis, devised a clever ruse, disguising their column as a vulnerable supply caravan. When the Apache struck, the troops launched a counterattack, inflicting serious casualties. However, the full success of the maneuver may have been blunted by an accidental rifle discharge that disrupted the ambush plan.

The soldiers remained alert. On May 7, 1860, Sergeant T.D. Denin of Company K led a heroic defense of a supply train against 40 to 50 mounted attackers. His composure under fire earned commendations and highlighted the fort’s vital role in ensuring the safety of commerce and communication in the region.

Legacy in the Making

Fort Lancaster’s early years were shaped by its remote and rugged setting, the perseverance of its garrison, and the constant tension of frontier conflict. Despite its isolated location, the post played a pivotal role in protecting settlers and solidifying federal presence in West Texas during a volatile period.

In Part 2, we will examine the fort’s final years, its abandonment in the wake of Texas’s secession from the Union, and its enduring legacy as a symbol of frontier resilience.





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