Fort Davis Massacre tells grim story

Jeff Davis County—Nestled at the base of the jagged, majestic Davis Mountains in West Texas, Fort Davis stands as a testament to the turbulent history of the American frontier. Serving as the county seat of Jeff Davis County, the fort was named in honor of Jefferson Davis, the president of the Southern Confederacy. Established in the mid-19th century, it became a crucial military outpost during the Indian Wars, guarding against raids and protecting settlers in this remote region.

Its location was strategically ideal: open plains stretched for miles to the south, offering unobstructed views broken only by distant mountain ranges, while to the north loomed dramatic cliffs reminiscent of Ireland’s Giant’s Causeway. At the foot of these towering rock formations flowed Limpia Creek, its clear waters earning it a Spanish name meaning “clean” or “transparent.” Lining the creek’s banks were ancient cottonwood trees, their gnarled bark speaking to centuries of endurance in this harsh landscape.

Mountains, Climate and a Healing Reputation

Fort Davis sits at an elevation of approximately 5,000 feet above sea level, but the surrounding peaks, such as Mount Livermore, Pinetop and Sawtooth, soar even higher, reaching between 8,000 and 10,000 feet. These mountains are dotted with short pines on their slopes, while deep canyons harbor vast forests of tall pines that provided lumber for constructing the fort’s quarters and buildings.

This high-altitude haven transformed into a renowned health resort. Visitors from the North and East once flocked here seeking relief from various ailments, drawn by the pure mountain air and invigorating climate. Many found complete cures, while others experienced significant improvements, making Fort Davis a beacon of natural healing in an otherwise unforgiving terrain.

Soldiers of Two Races, United in Service

The fort’s history is steeped in tragedy and resilience. Over the years, both white and Black soldiers, known as Buffalo Soldiers, were stationed here, and many met their end on the frontier, their remains interred in the local cemetery.

A poignant anecdote from a visit years ago highlights the site’s somber past. In the soldiers’ burial ground, many graves had been exhumed by the government for reburial elsewhere. One grave remained untouched, that of a soldier who had taken his own life and was left eternally in the plot he had chosen.

Victorio and the Border War

The most harrowing chapter in Fort Davis’s history unfolded in the late 1870s during intense conflict with Apache raiders led by Chief Victorio. Operating from the mountains of New Mexico and Arizona, Victorio ventured south to plunder and wage war on Texans and Mexicans along the border.

His band crossed the Rio Grande repeatedly, clashing three times with Texas Rangers, who forced them back into Mexico. When Mexican forces pressed too closely, Victorio slipped back into Texas. Key crossing points included the mouth of the Green River and areas near present-day Ojinaga.

A Cavalry Force Rides Out

Upon receiving intelligence that Victorio had re-entered Texas at the mouth of the Green River, about 60 miles west of Fort Davis, the fort’s commander mobilized a company of 59 mounted Black troops led by a white captain and lieutenant.

The soldiers camped one night in the foothills of the Davis Mountains before emerging onto the prairie, passing through what is now Valentine. Their objective was a visible pass at the mouth of a canyon, about 12 miles from Valentine and 45 miles from the fort — the most direct route to the Rio Grande valley.

A Fatal Command Decision

The captain lingered behind for undisclosed reasons, instructing his lieutenant to lead the troops and establish camp for the night. The lieutenant initially selected a defensible position east of the canyon mouth on elevated ground bordered by a rocky bluff.

Under his direction, the men built a circular breastwork of piled rocks, breast-high and capable of sheltering 75 fighters. The position forced attackers to advance across open terrain while defenders remained concealed.

However, upon arrival, the captain overruled the choice and ordered the camp moved into the canyon mouth, onto a roughly three-acre open glade surrounded by rocky hills, a creek bluff and a gully — a natural death trap. Apache scouts, unseen, watched from the surrounding peaks.

The Ambush at Dawn

Before daylight, Victorio positioned his warriors on all sides of the camp. At first light, Apache fighters opened fire from concealed positions, armed with modern rifles. The soldiers below, exposed and without cover, milled desperately, returning fire amid chaos.

Spent shells scattered across the site suggest multiple attempts to break out, particularly toward the creek bank to the north. Not a single soldier escaped alive. Many appeared to have been roused from sleep, fighting barefoot and coatless, as indicated by scattered boots, buttons and clothing fragments.

Graves, Remains and One Survivor

In the southwest corner near the rocky gully, the captain fell mortally wounded and was buried where he died. Decades later, his daughter had his remains moved to Arlington Cemetery. Nearby open graves suggest two other officers were also exhumed.

The remaining graves form a long row about 75 yards in length. One survivor escaped — the horse herder — who fled on horseback, was wounded, and continued on foot to Fort Davis to report the massacre.

Aftermath and Lasting Legacy

Victorio’s warriors stripped and mutilated the bodies, taking weapons, saddles and horses before retreating. Texas Rangers later pursued the Apache into the Guadalupe Mountains, but Victorio ultimately met his end in Mexico.

Today, the massacre site serves as a picnic area for Valentine residents, a stark contrast to its violent past. Fort Davis endures as a historical landmark, its stories of valor and tragedy echoing through the mountains, etched in stone, memory and scattered shell casings.